Painting On the Sprue Pt2

Or why IG players no longer have an excuse for an unpainted army. Alright so first off I will again state I am no golden daemon winner but I am not using the $1.50 bargain bin paint either and I like to think I know my way around a painting tile, in other words if you have an hour a day you can do this. Yes you heard that right I got about a Infantry squads worth of torso's and attachments painted in one hour, now you can see in the picture that obviously there can be more done there, but if you are a no frills kinda guy like myself you will go for the middle ground between volume and quality, now lets compound this with the fact that there are products like Army Painter quick dip its time to sit back and think about just what the average painter can do, I wont kid you I have been lagging behind on my guard do to other matters taking priority, so I just sat down tonight and timed my self and gauged the results, in the end I was not displeased, the brilliance of guard is that there beauty (I use that word lightly) is when they are en mass, the guard don't have elaborate hero's (compared to some of the details I had to do on SM) its a straight forward force painting wise. Now again I wont say this is how you do it from now on, no this is what works for me and I got results but what I will say is if you have a set still on the sprue bust it out and see what you can get done on the basic level, and remember you can go back later and detail any figure later, this tactic is just offered as a way to get your army on the table and you playing the game either with your new army or for the first time. So experiment a bit, and hey if you just want to try it WCC Collectibles is selling the basic cadian pack for $16.00 or close to, seriously you cant beat that price (obvious plug is obvious but hey they have been nothing but proper with me when I have dealt with them) Well that's about it, again good luck and happy painting to all.

Cheers

Scott
BH Senior Editor

First Podcast (round 2)

Alright so a double hitter tonight, I found a webhost service that I like with an embedded player to host the podcast, now the down side, the mics have not come in yet so the audio you get is pretty raw and there some breath gaps in there cause to be honest I did this on a whim to test the service. The clip is just basically me going over my trip to GK and some long winded un scripted pauses while my mind tries to come up with the right words (I need to go grab another can of Ace Energy) so its raw, its short and its all over the place but damn its there and its a step in the general direction we are headed here.


Ok just so this post remains 40k I will share with you the recovery process for stripping plastic minis, now I know this is hotly debated all over the net but I will tell you here and now that yes brake fluid works and dose not damage your minis (unless you left them in it for maybe a day) you have to scrub and re soak a few times but it dose work.

You can see more about stripping down minis in this guide by the guys over at Santa Cruz Warhammer

Bitz and Pain

For today's post I will be going over the fun process of detailing your bits, right now I am working on the panels for my chimera and I will tell you the devil is in the details. Alright I know a lot of people who do not prime there bits, this in my opinion is a mistake, you really want that base coat to get an even spread with your top coats, now in a case of the pot calling the kettle black here(that saying always sounded a bit racist to me) I in my tired state last night did not prime my vehicle bits sprue's and thus had to make my own base layers which honestly is not that hard but its a step that could go faster and save you some time. So after setting a base I went over the hatch white coat with a thin spread of black wash to smooth out the lines then added another thicker wet layer over that to give it a much more solid appearance, after that (and it was a mess layer) I went over the edging with a dry brush with bolter metal and then did the center latch in the same manner but with a thicker coat to start, after that a good thick wash was applied and a little extra towards the center edges to give it that shadowed look. The side panel was a similar process, base coat of Catachan green, wash then wet coat and when that set I went over the banner section with a few dry brushed layers of flat white Ceramcoat and then used my .003 sable to do the bolts. now why am I going over all this on just a small detail, well because I am honestly not a professional but I can cheat some of the same effects with these techniques and I hope that now some of you will take that little bit extra to move your work from game piece to model. Remember the devil is in the details.

Happy painting

Scott
BH Senior editor

P.S.
first podcast test now on the page, its just a test though but you can still enjoy my soothing voice.